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Contents
23.1 Electronic Shop Safety
23.1.1 Soldering safety
23.1.2 Chemicals
23.2 Tools And Their Use
23.2.1 Sources of Tools
23.2.2 Tool Descriptions and Uses
23.3 Soldering Tools and Techniques
23.3.1 Soldering Irons
23.3.2 Solder
23.3.3 Soldering
23.3.4 Desoldering
23.4 Surface Mount Technology (SMT)
23.5 Electronic Circuits
23.5.1 Electrostatic Discharge (ESD)
23.5.2 Electronics Construction Techniques
23.5.3 Printed-Circuit Boards
23.5.4 From Schematic to Working Circuit
23.5.5 Other Construction Techniques
23.6 Mechanical Fabrication
23.6.1 Cutting and Bending Sheet Metal
23.6.2 Finishing Aluminum
23.6.3 Chassis Working
23.6.4 Drilling Techniques
23.6.5 Construction Notes
23.4.1 Equipment Needed
23.4.2 Surface-Mount Parts
23.4.3 SMT Soldering Basics
23.4.4 Removing SMT Components
Chapter
23
Circuit Construction
23.1 Electronic Shop Safety
Building, repairing and modifying equipment in home workshops is a longstanding
ham radio tradition. In fact, in the early days, building your own equipment was the only
option available. While times and interests change, home construction of radio equipment
and related accessories remains popular and enjoyable. Building your own gear need not
be hazardous if you become familiar with the hazards, learn how to perform the necessary
functions and follow some basic safe practices including the ones listed below. Let’s start
with our own abilities:
Consider your state of mind.
Working on projects or troubleshooting (especially where
high voltage is present) requires concentration. Don’t work when you’re tired or distracted.
Be realistic about your ability to focus on the job at hand. Put another way, if we aren’t able
to be highly alert, we should put off doing hazardous work until we are able to focus on the
hazards.
Think! Pay attention to what you are doing.
No list of safety rules can cover all possibilities.
Safety is always your responsibility. You must think about what you are doing, how it relates
to the tools and the specific situation at hand. When working with tools, avoid creating situ-
ations in which you can be injured or the project damaged if things don’t go “just right.”
Take your time.
If you hurry, not only will you make more mistakes and possibly spoil the
appearance of your new equipment, you won’t have time to think things through. Always
plan ahead. Do not work with shop tools if you can’t concentrate on what you are doing —
it’s not a race!
Protect yourself.
Use of drills, saws, grinders and other wood- or metal-working equip-
ment can release small fragments that could cause serious eye damage. Always wear safety
glasses or goggles when doing work that might present a flying object hazard and that includes
soldering, where small bits of molten solder can be flung a surprising distance. If you use
hammers, wire-cutters, chisels and other hand tools, you will also need the protection that
safety eyewear offers. Dress appropriately — loose clothing (or even hair) can be caught in
exposed rotating equipment such as drill presses.
Don’t work alone.
Have someone nearby who can help if you get into trouble when work-
ing with dangerous equipment, chemicals or voltages.
Know what to do in an emergency.
Despite your best efforts to be careful, accidents may
still occur from time to time. Ensure that everyone in your household knows basic first aid
procedures and understands how to summon help in an emergency. They should also know
where to find and how to safely shut down electrical power in your shack and shop. Get
medical help when necessary. Every workshop should contain a good first-aid kit. Keep an
eye-wash kit near any dangerous chemicals or power tools that can create chips or splinters.
If you become injured, apply first aid and then seek medical help if you are not sure that
you are okay. Even a small burn or scratch on your eye can develop into a serious problem
if not treated promptly.
What about the equipment and tools involved in shop work? Here are some basic safety
considerations that apply to them, as well:
Read instructions and manuals carefully…and follow them.
The manufacturers of tools are the
most knowledgeable about how to use their products safely. Tap their knowledge by carefully
reading all operating instructions and warnings. Avoiding injuries with power tools requires
Home construction of electron-
ics projects can be a fun part of
Amateur Radio. Some say that
hams don’t build things nowadays;
this just isn’t so! A recent ARRL
survey shows that more than
half of active hams build some
electronic projects. When you go
to any ham flea market, you see
row after row of dealers selling
electronic components; people
are leaving those tables with
bags of parts. They must be doing
something with them!
Even experienced construc-
tors will find valuable tips in this
chapter. It discusses tools and
their uses, electronic construc-
tion techniques, tells how to turn
a schematic into a working circuit
and then summarizes common
mechanical construction practices.
Originally written and compiled by
Ed Hare, W1RFI, this chapter was
updated by Jim Duffey, KK6MC
with contributions from Chuck
Adams, K7QO.
Circuit Construction
23.1
safe tool design as well as proper operation by
the user. Keep the instructions in a place where
you can refer to them in the future.
Respect safety features of the equipment
you work on and use.
Never disable any safety
feature of any tool. If you do, sooner or later
you or someone else will make the mistake the
safety feature was designed to prevent.
Keep your shop or work area neat and or-
ganized.
A messy shop is a dangerous shop. A
knife left laying in a drawer can cut someone
looking for another tool; a hammer left on top
of a shelf can fall down at the worst possible
moment; a sharp tool left on a chair can be a
dangerous surprise for the weary constructor
who sits down.
Keep your tools in good condition.
Always
take care of your investment. Store tools in a
way to prevent damage or use by untrained
persons (young children, for example). Keep
the cutting edges of saws, chisels and drill
bits sharp. Protect metal surfaces from corro-
sion. Frequently inspect the cords and plugs
of electrical equipment and make any neces-
sary repairs. If you find that your power cord
is becoming frayed, repair it right away. One
solution is to buy a replacement cord with a
molded connector already attached.
Make sure your shop is well ventilated.
Paint, solvents, cleaners or other chemicals
can create dangerous fumes. If you feel dizzy,
get into fresh air immediately, and seek medi-
cal help if you do not recover quickly.
Respect power tools.
Power tools are not
forgiving. A drill can go through your hand
a lot easier than metal. A power saw can
remove a finger with ease. Keep away from
the business end of power tools. Tuck in your
shirt, roll up your sleeves and remove your tie
before using any power tool. If you have long
hair, tie it back so it can’t become entangled
in power equipment.
fumes is also hazardous. When smoking was
common, it was not uncommon to see techni-
cians who smoked light cigarettes with their
soldering iron. This should not be done.
Soldering equipment gets
hot
! Be care-
ful. Treat a soldering iron as you would any
other hot object. A soldering iron stand is
helpful, preferably one that has a cage that
surrounds the hot tip of the iron. Here’s a help-
ful tip — if the soldering iron gets knocked
off the bench, train yourself not to grab for
it because the chances are good that you’ll
grab the hot end!
Generally, solder used for electronic com-
ponents contains a flux that assists the solder
in making a thoroughly wetted joint. (Never
use acid-flux, as described in the section on
soldering.) When heated, the flux gives off a
vapor in the form of a light gray smoke-like
plume. This flux vapor, which often contains
aldehydes, is a strong irritant and can cause
potentially serious problems to persons who
may have respiratory sensitivity conditions
including those who suffer from asthma. In
most cases it is relatively easy to use a small
fan to move the flux vapor away from your
eyes and face. Opening a window provides
additional air exchange. In extreme cases use
an organic vapor cartridge respirator.
Solvents are often used to remove excess
flux after the parts have cooled to room tem-
perature. Minimize skin contact with solvents
by wearing molded gloves resistant to the
solvent. If you use a solvent to remove flux,
it is best to use the mildest one that does the
job. Isopropyl alcohol, or rubbing alcohol, is
often sufficient. Some water-soluble solder
fluxes can be removed with water.
Observe these precautions to protect your-
self and others:
• Properly ventilate the work area. If you
can smell fumes, you are breathing them.
• Wash your hands after soldering, espe-
cially before handling food.
• Minimize direct contact with flux and
flux solvents. Wear disposable surgical
gloves when handling solvents.
For more information about soldering haz-
ards and the ways to make soldering safer,
see “Making Soldering Safer,” by Brian P.
Bergeron, MD, NU1N (Mar 1991
QST
, pp
28-30) and “More on Safer Soldering,” by
Gary E. Meyers, K9CZB (Aug 1991
QST
,
p 42).
Read the information that accompanies the
chemical
and follow the manufacturer’s rec-
ommended safety practices. If you would like
more information than is printed on the label,
ask for a material safety data sheet (MSDS).
Material safety data sheets are available on the
Internet from several sources, such as
www.
meridianeng.com/datasheets.html
. Manu-
facturers of brand-name chemical products
usually post an MSDS on their product Web
sites.
Store chemicals properly,
away from sun-
light and sources of heat. Secure their con-
tainers to prevent spills and so that children
and untrained persons will not gain access.
Always keep containers labeled so there is
no confusion about the contents. It is best to
use the container in which the chemical was
purchased. If you transfer solvents to other
containers, such as wash bottles, label the new
container with exactly what it contains.
Handle chemicals carefully
to avoid spills.
Clean up any spills or leaks promptly but don’t
overexpose yourself in the process. Never
dispose of chemicals in household sinks or
drains. Instead, contact your local waste plant
operator, transfer station or fire department to
determine the proper disposal procedures for
your area. Many communities have house-
hold hazardous waste collection programs.
Of course, the best solution is to only buy the
amount of chemical that you will need, and
use it all if possible. Always label any waste
chemicals, especially if they are no longer
in their original containers. Oil-filled capaci-
tors and transformers were once commonly
filled with oil containing PCBs. Never dispose
of any such items that may contain PCBs in
landfills.
Always use recommended personal protec-
tive equipment
(such as gloves, face shield,
splash goggles and aprons). If corrosives (ac-
ids or caustics) are splashed on you
immedi-
ately
rinse with cold water for a minimum
of 15 minutes to flush the skin thoroughly.
If splashed in the eyes, direct a gentle stream
of cold water into the eyes for at least 15
minutes. Gently lift the eyelids so trapped
liquids can be flushed completely. Start flush-
ing before removing contaminated clothing.
Seek professional medical assistance. If using
hazardous chemicals, it is unwise to work
alone since people splashed with chemicals
need the calm influence of another person.
Food and chemicals don’t mix.
Keep food,
drinks and cigarettes
away
from areas where
chemicals are used and don’t bring chemicals
to places where you eat.
Table 23.1
summarizes the uses and haz-
ards of chemicals used in the ham shack. It
includes preventive measures that can mini-
mize risk. Additional safe chemical handling
information can be found on the Internet at
www2.umdnj.edu/eohssweb/aiha/techni-
cal/msds.htm
.
23.1.1 Soldering Safety
Soldering requires a certain degree of
practice and, of course, the right tools. What
potential hazards are involved?
Since the solder used for virtually all elec-
tronic components is a lead-tin alloy, the first
thing in most people’s minds is lead, a well-
known health hazard. There are two primary
ways lead might enter our bodies when solder-
ing: we could breathe lead fumes into our lungs
or we could ingest (swallow) lead or lead-
contaminated food. Inhalation of lead fumes is
extremely unlikely because the temperatures
ordinarily used in electronic soldering are far
below those needed to vaporize lead. Never-
theless, since lead is soft and we may tend to
handle it with our fingers, contaminating our
food is a real possibility. For this reason, wash
your hands carefully after any soldering (or
touching of solder connections).
Handling lead or breathing soldering
23.1.2 Chemicals
We can’t seem to live without the use of
chemicals, even in the electronics age and a
number of chemicals are used every day by
amateurs without causing ill effects. A sen-
sible approach is to become knowledgeable
of the hazards associated with the chemicals
we use and treat them with respect. Here are
a few key suggestions:
23.2
Chapter 23
Table 23.1
Properties and Hazards of Chemicals often used in the Shack or Workshop
Generic Chemical Name
Purpose or Use
Hazards
Ways to Minimize Risks
Lead-tin solder
Bonding electrical
Lead exposure
Always wash hands after
components
(mostly from hand contact)
soldering or touching solder.
Flux exposure (inhalation)
Use good ventilation.
Isopropyl alcohol
Flux remover
Dermatitis (skin rash)
Wear molded gloves suitable
for solvents.
Vapor inhalation
Use good ventilation and
avoid aerosol generation.
Fire hazard
Use good ventilation, limit use to
small amounts, keep ignition
sources away, dispose of
rags only in tightly sealed
metal cans.
Freons
Circuit cooling and
Vapor inhalation
Use adequate ventilation.
general solvent
Dermatitis
Wear molded gloves suitable
for solvents.
Phenols and
Enameled wire/
Strong skin corrosive
Avoid skin contact; wear
methylene chloride
paint stripper
suitable molded gloves; use
adequate ventilation.
Beryllium oxide
Ceramic insulator that
Toxic when in ine dust
Avoid grinding, sawing or
can conduct heat well
form and inhaled
reducing to dust form.
Beryllium metal
Lightweight metal,
Same as beryllium oxide
Avoid grinding, sawing,
alloyed with copper
welding or reducing to dust.
Contact supplier for special
procedures.
Various paints
Finishing
Exposures to solvents
Adequate ventilation; use
respirator when spraying.
Exposures to sensitizers
Adequate ventilation and
(especially urethane paint)
use respirator.
Exposure to toxic metals
Adequate ventilation and
(lead, cadmium, chrome,
use respirator.
and so on) in pigments
Fire hazard (especially
Adequate ventilation;
when spray painting)
control of residues; eliminate
ignition sources.
Ferric chloride
Printed circuit
Skin and eye contact
Use suitable containers;
board etchant
wear splash goggles and
molded gloves suitable for acids.
Ammonium persulphate
Printed circuit
Skin and eye contact
Use suitable containers;
and mercuric chloride
board etchants
wear splash goggles and
molded gloves suitable for acids.
Epoxy resins
General purpose
Dermatitis and possible
Avoid skin contact. Mix
cement or paint
sensitizer
only amount needed.
Sulfuric acid
Electrolyte in
Strong corrosive when
Always wear splash goggles and
lead-acid batteries
on skin or eyes.
molded plastic gloves (PVC) when
Will release hydrogen
handling. Keep ignition sources
when charging (ire,
away from battery when charging.
explosion hazard).
Use adequate ventilation.
Circuit Construction
23.3
23.2 Tools and Their Use
All electronic construction makes use of
tools, from mechanical tools for chassis fab-
rication to the soldering tools used for circuit
assembly. A good understanding of tools and
their uses will enable you to perform most
construction tasks.
While sophisticated and expensive tools
often work better or more quickly than simple
hand tools, with proper use, simple hand tools
can turn out a fine piece of equipment.
Table
23.2
lists tools indispensable for construction
of electronic equipment. These tools can be
used to perform nearly any construction task.
Add tools to your collection from time to
time, as finances permit.
Radio equipment. (The ARRL’s
Technical
Information Service
at
www.arrl.org/tis
lists
numerous sources of tools and supplies.) Bar-
gains are available at ham flea markets or
local neighborhood sales, but beware! Some
flea-market bargains are really shoddy and
won’t work very well or last very long. Some
used tools are offered for sale because the
owner is not happy with their performance.
There is no substitute for quality! A high-
quality tool, while a bit more expensive, will
last a lifetime. Poor quality tools don’t last
long and often do a poor job even when brand
new. You don’t need to buy machinist-grade
tools, but stay away from cheap tools; they are
not the bargains they might appear to be.
Dull or broken tools can be safety hazards.
Tools that are in good condition do the work
for you; tools that are misused or dull are
difficult to use.
Store tools in a dry place. Tools do not fit
in with most living-room decors, so they are
often relegated to the basement or garage.
Unfortunately, many basements or garages
are not good places to store tools; dampness
and dust are not good for tools. If your tools
are stored in a damp place, use a dehumidifier.
Sometimes you can minimize rust by keeping
your tools lightly oiled, but this is a second-
best solution. If you oil your tools, they may
not rust, but you will end up covered in oil
every time you use them. Wax or silicone
spray is a better alternative.
Store tools neatly. A messy toolbox, with
tools strewn about haphazardly, can be more
than an inconvenience. You may waste a lot
of time looking for the right tool and sharp
23.2.1 Sources of Tools
Electronic-supply houses, mail-order/Web
stores and most hardware stores carry the
tools required to build or service Amateur
CARE OF TOOLS
The proper care of tools is more than a
matter of pride. Tools that have not been cared
for properly will not last long or work well.
Table 23.2
Recommended Tools and Materials
Simple Hand Tools
Screwdrivers
Slotted, 3-in,
1
⁄
8
-in blade
Slotted, 8-in,
1
⁄
8
-in blade
Slotted, 3-in,
3
⁄
16
-in blade
Slotted, stubby,
1
⁄
4
-in blade
Slotted, 4-in,
1
⁄
4
-in blade
Slotted, 6-in,
5
⁄
16
-in blade
Phillips, 2
1
⁄
2
-in, #0 (pocket clip)
Phillips, 3-in, #1
Phillips, stubby, #2
Phillips, 4-in, #2
Phillips, 4-in, #2
Long-shank screwdriver with holding clip on
blade
Jeweler’s set
Right-angle, slotted and Phillips
Pliers, Sockets and Wrenches
Long-nose pliers, 6- and 4-in
Diagonal cutters, 6- and 4-in
Channel-lock pliers, 6-in
Slip-joint pliers
Locking pliers (Vise Grip or equivalent)
Socket nut-driver set,
1
⁄
16
- to
1
⁄
2
-in
Set of socket wrenches for hex nuts
Allen (hex) wrench set
Wrench set
Adjustable wrenches, 6- and 10-in
Tweezers, regular and reverse-action
Retrieval tool/parts holder, lexible claw
Retrieval tool, magnetic
Cutting and Grinding Tools
File set consisting of lat, round, half-round,
and triangular. Large and miniature types
recommended
Burnishing tool
Wire strippers
Wire crimper
Hemostat, straight
Scissors
Tin shears, 10-in
Hacksaw and blades
Soldering iron, 200-W,
5
⁄
8
-in tip
Solder, 60/40, rosin core
Soldering gun, with assorted tips
Desoldering tool
Desoldering wick
Safety
Safety glasses
Hearing protector, earphones or earplugs
Fire extinguisher
First-aid kit
Useful Materials
Medium-weight machine oil
Contact cleaner, liquid or spray can
RTV sealant or equivalent
Electrical tape, vinyl plastic
Sandpaper, assorted
Emery cloth
Steel wool, assorted
Cleaning pad, Scotchbrite or equivalent
Cleaners and degreasers
Contact lubricant
Sheet aluminum, solid and perforated, 16- or
18-gauge, for brackets and shielding.
Aluminum angle stock,
1
⁄
2
×
1
⁄
2
-in and
1
⁄
4
-in
diameter round brass or aluminum rod (for
shaft extensions)
Machine screws: Round-head and lat
head, with nuts and lockwashers to it.
Most useful sizes: 4-40, 6-32 and 8-32, in
lengths from
1
⁄
4
-in to 1
1
⁄
2
in (Nickel-plated
steel is satisfactory except in strong RF
ields, where brass should be used.)
Bakelite, Lucite, polystyrene and copper-clad
PC-board scraps.
Soldering lugs, panel bearings, rubber
grommets, terminal-lug wiring strips,
varnished-cambric insulating tubing, heat-
shrinkable tubing
Shielded and unshielded wire
Tinned bare wire, #22, #14 and #12
Enameled wire, #20 through #30
Hand nibbling tool (for chassis-hole cutting)
Scratch awl or scriber (for marking metal)
Heavy-duty jackknife
Knife blade set (X-ACTO or equivalent)
Machine-screw taps, #4-40 through #10-32
thread
Socket punches,
1
⁄
2
in,
5
⁄
8
in,
3
⁄
4
in, 1
1
⁄
8
in,
1
1
⁄
4
in, and 1
1
⁄
2
in
Tapered reamer, T-handle,
1
⁄
2
-in maximum
width
Deburring tool
Miscellaneous Hand Tools
Combination square, 12-in, for layout work
Hammer, ball-peen, 12-oz head
Hammer, tack
Bench vise, 4-in jaws or larger
Center punch
Plastic alignment tools
Mirror, inspection
Flashlight, penlight and standard
Magnifying glass
Ruler or tape measure
Dental pick
Calipers
Brush, wire
Brush, soft
Small paintbrush
IC-puller tool
Hand-Powered Tools
Hand drill,
1
⁄
4
-in chuck or larger
High-speed drill bits, #60 through
3
⁄
8
-in
diameter
Power Tools
Motor-driven emery wheel for grinding
Electric drill, hand-held
Drill press
Miniature electric motor tool (Dremel or
equivalent) and accessory drill press
Soldering Tools and Supplies
Soldering pencil, 30-W,
1
⁄
8
-in tip
23.4
Chapter 23
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