108 - Slant-Front Tool Cart Plan.pdf

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SLANT-FRONT
TOOL CART
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co.
H
eirloom
P
roject
S
lant
-
front
t
ool
c
art
Store a shopful of tools and keep them right where you need
them with this roll-around tool cart.
1
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© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Construction Details
Overall Dimensions:
19
1
/
4
" x 27
1
/
2
"x 47
7
/
8
"
2
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© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
1
a.
b.
c.
d.
I started building the tool cart by
working on the main case. As you
can see in the drawing above, it’s
nothing more than a large ply-
wood box that consists of a top and
bottom, a pair of sides, and a back.
A set of hardwood rails added to
the top and bottom of the cart hides
the plywood edges and helps pre-
vent the cart from racking.
Plywood Case Construction
and straight bit to trim the edges
perfectly straight and square. If
you plan on building the upper tool
chest or shelf, now’s a good time to
drill a pair of shelf pin holes near
the top of each side, as in Figure 2.
Add Some edging.
To protect the
plywood, I added some thick, hard-
wood edging. Since a couple of the
edges won’t be seen, you only need
to add edging to the front and top
of each side (Figure 2). For an easy
way to trim the edging flush, check
out the box on page 4.
2
To help keep everything aligned,
the top and bottom fit into dadoes
cut into the sides of the case, as
illustrated in Figure 2. Take some
time here to ensure the good face of
each plywood side faces out before
cutting the dadoes.
Once the dadoes are cut, you
can trim the front corner of each
side to create the slant front. I did
this by making a rough cut with
my jig saw to remove most of the
waste. Then to clean up the edge,
I clamped a straightedge in place
and then used a hand-held router
START WITH THE SIDES
3
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© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Next, you can turn your attention
to the top and bottom of the cart.
They’re cut to length to fit between
the sides of the cart. But before cut-
ting them to width, you’ll need to
account for a couple of things.
Tongue & groove Joinery.
First, the
top and bottom have a tongue cut
along the front and back edges.
These tongues fit into grooves cut
into rails at the top and bottom of the
cart. You can see how all this works
in Figures 1c and 1d on page 3.
The rails serve two purposes. For
starters, they cover up the plywood
edges. But more importantly, they
help prevent the cart from racking
as it’s rolled around the shop.
At the back of the cart, the rail is
flush with the sides, but the rail at
the front is recessed
1
⁄
4
". Be sure to
account for this when you cut the top
and bottom to width. Then you can
cut the tongues along each edge.
At this point, I dry assembled the
cart using screws and finish washers
(Figures 1a and 1b). This makes it
easier to cut the front and back rails
accurately to final length.
The next step is to cut a narrow
groove in each rail. The only thing
to keep in mind here is that the
groove is located a bit lower in
ADD THE TOP & BOTTOM
3
FIGURE
the two top rails, like you see in
Figure 1c on page 3. This forms a
lip to prevent any tools resting on
top from rolling off during use. The
groove in the bottom rail is located
so the top of the rail is flush with the
upper face of the cart bottom.
Sizing The BAck.
Before you can
assemble the cart, you’ll need to cut
the back to size. To do this, I cut the
back to width so it will fit between
the sides of the case.
But I don’t cut the back to length
just yet. First, I cut a groove along the
bottom edge of the back rail. Then I
cut a tongue on the top edge of the
back to fit. To complete the back, I
cut a narrow dado near the bottom
edge (Figure 1d). This dado is sized
to fit the tongue cut earlier along the
back edge of the bottom.
After that, you can assemble the
cart with glue, screws, and finish
a.
washers (Figures 1a and
1b). Then to help rein-
force the upper corners of
the case, I added a couple
of support blocks, like you
see in Figures 1 and 1a.
They’re simply glued in place.
Finally, I added some heavy-duty
casters for mobility. And to provide a
solid mounting point, I added a pair
of hardwood support blocks under
the bottom of the cart (Figures 3 and
3a). After gluing the blocks in place,
you can screw the casters in place.
MAKING IT MOBILE
TRIMMING EDGING FLUSH
Plywood is a great material to use
any time you build a large project
for the shop. But to make it look its
best, I like to add hardwood strips
to cover up the plywood edges.
Gluing on a strip of edging isn’t
all that difficult. But making sure
it’s perfectly flush with both sides
can be a challenge. So instead, I like
to glue extra-wide edging in place
and then trim it flush with each face
of the plywood. A hand-held router
and flush trim bit make quick work
of the task (see photo).
The problem is keeping the
router steady as you work. A handy
way to form a solid support sur-
face for the router is to clamp the
two sides together with a spacer
in between. You can see how this
works in the drawing below.
After routing down one side and
back up the other, just repeat the
process for the other edges. You’ll
need to flip the sides and clamp
them back together to trim the
edging flush on the other two faces.
4
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

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