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10
Easy-to-Build
Plywood Projects
Ten shop projects — ten sheets of plywood.
These rock-solid essentials take just a couple
hours to build and will help you make the
most of the space in your shop.
All content in this document ©August Home Publishing. All rights reserved.
Step-Stool
Tool Tote
As much as I enjoy woodworking in
my shop, I ind that I spend almost
as much time working on projects
around the house. And because that
usually involves carrying tools to
where I’m working, it’s nice to have
something to carry them in. That’s
where these tool totes come in. Each
tote is open on one side to make it
easy to load and unload your tools.
And a narrow cleat along the front
edge of the opening prevents small
items from falling out.
Not only does the tote hold an
armful of tools, but it’s just the
right height for sawing the end off
a board. In fact, you can make a pair
of them to use as mini-sawhorses.
And when you want to take a break,
the tote makes a great little stool.
The tool totes are so small that
you only need half a sheet of
3
⁄
4
"
plywood to build a pair of them (see
cutting diagram below). To build
the tool totes, start by cutting the
ends to size, as shown in Figure 1.
The “feet” can then be cut out on the
ends using a band saw or a jig saw.
After you’ve inished making the
end pieces, you can set them aside
while you cut out the bottom, back,
and front cleat of the tote. There’s
nothing out of the ordinary here —
I simply cut the pieces out
according to the cutting dia-
gram shown below.
Assembly.
The tool totes are
assembled with yellow glue
and screws. To make sure
everything was lined up
accurately, I dry clamped
all the pieces together irst
and then drilled the pilot
holes for the screws. Then I
removed the clamps, glued
the pieces together, and
added the screws. I started
by screwing the bottom
and back together, and then
added the front cleat.
The bottom/back assem-
bly gets sandwiched between
the two end pieces. Again,
I used screws and glue to
attach the ends.
Top.
The last piece to add
is the top. The top also dou-
bles as the “handle” for the
tool tote, like you see in the photo
above. So after cutting this piece
to size, you’ll need to cut out an
opening in the center. I made this
slot by simply drilling a starter
hole at each end point of the open-
ing and removing the waste in
between with a jig saw. Then for a
more comfortable grip, I eased the
edges by sanding them lightly.
To attach the top, I used some
metal corner braces (see photo in
margin). These are just screwed to
the inside faces of the end pieces
and then to the underside of the top,
as you can see in Figure 1b.
Corner Braces.
These metal
corner braces
provide a quick
and easy way of
securely attach-
ing the top of
the tote.
1
FIGURE
a.
b.
www.ShopNotesSpecials.com 2
Roll-Around
Cutoff Bin
Dealing with short cut-off pieces of
lumber is a problem that just about
every woodworker has to face. No
matter how neat you try to stack
the cutoffs, it doesn’t take long for
a small pile to turn into a mountain.
And this makes it almost impos-
sible to sort through the cutoffs to
ind a piece that you can use.
Which is exactly why you need
a storage bin like the one you see
here. It’s fairly small, so it doesn’t
take up much space. But it holds a
lot of cutoffs. And dividers inside
the bin allow you to sort the cut-
offs, making it easier to ind the one
piece you’re looking for.
ConsTruCTion.
To build the cutoff
bin, start by cutting the front, back,
and bottom pieces to size (see the
cutting diagram below). After cut-
ting out these pieces, you can glue
and screw them together. The bot-
tom is trapped between the front
and back to create a U-shaped
assembly. But when you’re doing
this, make sure that the ends of the
pieces remain lush.
DiviDers.
The next step is to add
the dividers. These three pieces are
all identical. They’re cut to it in
between the front and back of the
bin. After cutting the pieces to size
and cutting the taper on the front
edge of each piece, the two end
dividers can be glued and screwed
in place so that they’re lush with
the ends of the front, back, and bot-
tom of the bin. The center divider
separates the space inside the bin
into two equal sections. It’s centered
between the two ends and then
glued and screwed in place.
inTerior DiviDers.
The last pieces to
make are the two interior divid-
ers. These pieces help to separate
long and short cutoffs by dividing
the bin into smaller compartments.
The interior dividers are centered
between the front and the back of
the bin. After cutting them to size,
they’re attached with corner braces,
as shown in Figure 1a.
Most of the time, this cutoff bin
will probably just sit in a corner of
your shop. But you may want to
move it occasionally to clean behind
it. The only problem is that once it’s
loaded up with lumber, moving it is
no simple task. So, I screwed some
casters to the bottom corners, as you
see in Figure 1b. (I use two ixed
casters and two swivel casters.)
a.
b.
1
FIGURE
Casters.
To
make the cutoff
bin easier to
move around, I
added casters to
the bottom.
www.ShopNotesSpecials.com 3
Plywood
Workbench
This workbench is just the right size
for working on small projects. It can
be set against the back wall of the
garage without taking up too much
space. And it has some storage
room below the top for your tools.
Even if you already have a full-size
workbench in your shop, this bench
makes a great “backup.”
Joinery.
Like the other plywood
projects, there isn’t any compli-
cated joinery on this bench. It’s put
together with screws and butt joints.
But the trick is to assemble every-
thing in a speciic order and cut the
parts to it as you go along.
I started by cutting out the ends
and back of the bench, like you see
in Figure 1. Then I used a jig saw
to cut away the waste and create
the “feet” on the bottom of the two
ends. I also drilled shelf pin holes in
the right end piece.
Shelf Pins.
The
adjustable shelf
is supported
by spoon-style
shelf pins.
After screwing the ends to the
back, you can cut the ixed shelf to
it between the ends. Once you’ve
positioned this piece between the
ends, you can screw it in place.
Top.
The top is cut to size and
attached to the ends with corner
braces (Figure 1a). Then you can
cut the divider to it between the
top and the ixed shelf. Before
attaching the divider, however,
you’ll want to drill some shelf pin
holes to match the ones in the end
of the bench. Then you can screw
the divider to the ixed shelf and
attach it to the top of the bench
with a couple of corner braces.
Finally, I cut an adjustable shelf to
it in the space between the divider
and the end of the bench.
1
FIGURE
a.
www.ShopNotesSpecials.com 4
Modular
Wall Cabinet
This wall cabinet project is actually
two cabinets — one with a door and
one without. You can stack them or
hang them side by side on the wall.
CAses.
The cases of the two wall
cabinets are identical except for their
depth. One of the cabinets is
3
⁄
4
" shal-
lower than the other, to allow for the
thickness of the door.
You can start by cutting all the
sides, tops and bottoms, and backs
to size, as shown in Figure 1 below.
When it comes to cutting the sides,
you’ll notice that the cabinet with
the door has one side that’s
3
⁄
16
"
narrower than the other. This is to
allow for the door hinge that will
be added later.
The next step is to drill some
holes in the sides for the shelf
pins that will be used to support
the shelves. I did this on the drill
press. After you’ve inished drill-
ing all the shelf pin holes, you can
assemble the two cases. The sides,
top, and bottom are all wrapped
around the back panels and then
glued and screwed together.
With the cases assembled, you can
cut some adjustable shelves to it
inside them. There are three shelves
for the open cabinet and two for the
cabinet with the door.
Door.
At this point, the open cabi-
net is done. To complete the other
cabinet, all you need is a door. The
door is just a piece of plywood cut
to it over the front of the case. It’s
attached with a piano hinge. Then to
help keep the door closed, I added a
couple magnetic catches — one at
the top of the cabinet and one at the
bottom. Finally, I mounted a handle
to the front of the door.
1
FIGURE
Door Hardware.
A window sash
pull makes a low-
cost, yet practical
door handle. And
a pair of magnetic
catches ensures
that the door stays
shut until you’re
ready to open it.
a.
b.
www.ShopNotesSpecials.com 5
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